What Is a Survey-Prep Guide?

A survey-prep guide is a model-specific inspection framework designed to help buyers understand a yacht before committing to travel or arranging a marine survey.

 

Each guide highlights:

• common age-related patterns

• known areas where wear tends to appear

• photo angles that reveal early clarity

• questions that lead to useful seller responses

It is not a substitute for a survey — it is a way to reach the survey stage with fewer unknowns and a clearer sense of whether the boat fits your expectations.

 

Why We Don’t Replace Surveyors

TrueNorth Yacht Advisors is an independent buyer-support service.
We do not diagnose structure, do not evaluate moisture levels, and do not perform engineering assessments.

Certified surveyors remain essential because they:

• inspect hull and deck structure

• test rigging and hardware under load

• assess moisture, corrosion, and mechanical function

• provide formally recognized documentation

Our role is preparation — helping buyers approach the survey with order, clarity, and the right expectations.

 

Pre-Survey Buyer Rules

A few steady principles help keep the yacht-buying process calm and predictable.

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1. Begin with photos — not flights. A complete photo set answers more questions than most early walkthroughs.

2. Compare the boat’s story to the seller’s story. Consistency matters more than cosmetic condition.

3. Keep remote observations observational. Only surveyors draw conclusions.

4. Treat missing documentation as missing work. A simple, protective assumption.

5. Use the sea trial to surface early clarity.Major mechanical issues rarely hide underway.

6. Unknowns are negotiation placeholders. You don’t need answers immediately — just before commitment.

7. Walk away cleanly when the story feels unclear.

 

There is always another boat.

 

How to Use Our Survey-Prep Guides

Each guide follows a consistent flow:

• model history and characteristics

• known weak points and age-related notes

• red and green flags

• seller questions and verification points

• pre-survey photo checklist

• sea-trial guidance

• negotiation notes

• long-term ownership suggestions

 

The structure helps buyers evaluate a yacht in a calm, logical sequence that complements — not replaces — a professional survey.

 

How to Request Photos the Smart Way

Clear requests save time for everyone.

• ask for bright, natural lighting

• request both wide shots and close-ups

• specify angles (e.g., “rudders from aft, low to the waterline”)

• keep the list organized and concise

• acknowledge the seller’s effort

Good sellers appreciate a professional approach.

 

What Surveyors Appreciate When Buyers Are Prepared

Prepared buyers make surveys more efficient.
Surveyors often mention how helpful it is when buyers provide:

• organized photo sets

• complete inventory lists

• a tidy boat on arrival

• clear pre-survey questions

• realistic expectations for age and condition

Preparation reduces misunderstanding and focuses the survey on meaningful findings.

 

When to Skip a Boat Before the Survey

You can avoid unnecessary travel and survey costs by stepping back early when:

• sellers avoid photo requests

• documentation is incomplete or inconsistent

• interior moisture appears widespread

• multiple systems show deferred attention

• the vessel’s story shifts across conversations

 

These aren’t “bad boats” — they’re simply not travel-worthy yet.

 

How to Interpret Seller Hesitation

Hesitation is not always a warning sign.
But buyers often slow down when:

• answers become vague

• promised documents don’t arrive

• certain areas are never photographed

• maintenance history feels patchy

Calm, steady questioning often brings the needed clarity.

 

Travel-Worthy vs. Not-Yet Travel-Worthy Boats

Before booking a flight, ask whether the vessel shows a consistent pattern.

Travel-worthy boats often show:

• tidy bilges

• stable steering feel

• predictable service history

• clean window lines

• documented engine care

 

Not-yet travel-worthy boats often show:

• widespread staining

• unclear rigging age

• mismatched electrical upgrades

• missing haul-out history

Travel only when you know the boat has genuine potential.

 

What a “Consistent Maintenance Rhythm” Looks Like

A steady maintenance rhythm tells buyers more than any single upgrade.

Look for:

• clean engine spaces

• labeled wiring

• hardware re-bedded on a normal timeline

• matching fasteners

• practical upgrades suited to the region

• ventilation habits reflected in interior condition

Small details create the larger impression.

 

Buyer Glossary — Useful Terms to Know

Bedding — Sealant under deck hardware.
Chainplate — Fitting securing standing rigging.
Diaphragm (Saildrive) — Time-based membrane separating engine and sea.
Rudder Stock — Vertical shaft linking rudder to steering.
Soft Spot — Deck area showing core compression underfoot.
Crazing — Fine cracking in aged acrylic hatches.
Tabbing — Fiberglass connecting bulkheads to hull.
Bridgedeck Clearance — Height affecting comfort in chop.
Martingale / Dolphin Striker — Support for forward beam loads.

A shared vocabulary keeps communication clear.

 

Independent. Neutral. No Commissions.

TrueNorth Yacht Advisors exists for one purpose:
to help buyers make clear decisions by giving them better information earlier in the process.

 

We work only for buyers.
We do not represent sellers.
We do not earn commissions.
We do not perform surveys.
 

We provide structure, clarity, and model-specific context — nothing more, nothing less.

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The Pre-Survey Photo + Video Shot List

Remote Yacht Evaluation (What to Request Before You Travel)

If you’re evaluating a used cruising yacht remotely (or preparing for a survey), the fastest way to reduce risk is to request a consistent set of photos and short videos that prove condition, maintenance reality, and system access. This shot list is designed to surface deal-breakers early, before booking flights, paying deposits, or wasting time on a boat that looks better in the listing than it does in real life.

If support is needed interpreting what you receive (or if the seller is cooperative but not technical), Pre-

 

Survey Support is available:
https://www.truenorthyachtadvisors.com/pre-survey-support

Browse model-specific Survey-Prep Guides here:
https://www.truenorthyachtadvisors.com/survey-guides

 

How to use this shot list

1. Send the sections below to the seller or broker exactly as written.

2. Ask for one complete pass, not a curated selection. If only the prettiest angles are sent, nothing is learned.

3. If key areas cannot be accessed (engine, bilges, seacocks, chainplates), treat that as information, not an inconvenience.

4. When in doubt, request short videos. Video shows access, vibration, drips, noise, and overall reality better than stills.

 

Rules for photos and videos (so the results are usable)

• No filters, no “art photos,” no heavy wide-angle distortion if possible. This is inspection evidence, not marketing.

• Good light, stable hands, slow movement. A shaky 4K video is still useless.

• Show scale. When filming cracks, corrosion, damp, or wear, put a hand or phone in frame.

• Open the panels. Closed engine boxes, closed bilge hatches, and stuffed lockers are where expensive truths live.

• Keep it consistent. Shoot the same pattern every time so boats can be compared fairly.

 

Exterior and structure (hulls, deck, rig)

Minimum photo set

• Full profile: port side, starboard side, bow-on, stern-on.

• Waterline close-ups along both sides (look for repairs, fairing patches, impact scars, blisters).

• Deck overview: foredeck, coachroof, cockpit, and any hardtop/bimini structure.

• Close-ups of high-load deck fittings: cleats, winches, genoa tracks, traveler, windlass base.

• Stanchion bases and pulpits: close-up plus wider context (leaks and core issues often begin here).

• Hatches and portlights: close-up on frames and surrounding deck areas (staining and old sealant tells a story).

 

Must-have video

• One slow “walk and pan” deck video: bow to cockpit, then cockpit to stern.

 

Rig and chainplate evidence

• Mast base / mast step area: close-up plus surrounding deck.

• Boom gooseneck and vang attachment: close-ups (wear and cracking can hide here).

• Chainplates: inside and outside, including the surrounding structure (bulkheads, cabinetry edges, tabbing).

• Standing rigging terminations: swages or mechanical fittings, plus any visible corrosion.

 

Catamaran-specific structural shots (if applicable)

If the boat is a catamaran, add these (they matter):

• Under-bridge deck / bridgedeck underside: cracking, repairs, impact marks.

• Crossbeam landings: close-ups where beams meet hulls.

• Bulkhead tabbing in key compartments: wide photo, then close-up of any separation or “print-through.”

• Rudder stocks and steering linkages: photos plus a short video moving the wheel side to side.

 

Engine rooms and mechanical

For each engine, request

• Wide shot showing the whole engine in context (access and housekeeping matters).

• Close-ups of:

  • Engine mounts

  • Belts and pulleys

  • Cooling hoses and clamps

  • Heat exchanger area

  • Exhaust elbow area (if visible)

  • Wiring condition (messy, unsupported, burnt, spliced)

  • Any oil in the pan or staining under the engine

 

Engine start video (high value)

Request a short video showing:

• The engine panel (hours visible if possible)

• Starting the engine

• Idle for 10–15 seconds

• A brief increase in RPM

• Exhaust outlet showing water flow and any smoke

 

Plumbing and through-hulls (money and safety)

• Every seacock / through-hull that can be accessed:

  • Wide shot showing location

  • Close-up showing corrosion, hose condition, and clamps

  • If safe, a photo showing handle position (open and closed)

• Bilges:

  • Wide shot (overall cleanliness and water level)

  • Close-up of pumps and float switches

  • Any staining, sludge, or oil sheen

• Heads and sanitation:

  • Under-sink plumbing and hoses

  • Toilet base and hose runs where visible

  • Holding tank area (leaks and smell sources)

 

Electrical and batteries (the hidden chaos zone)

Request:

• Battery bank overview, then close-ups of labels and dates.

• Inverter/charger close-ups (model label readable).

• Solar controllers and alternator charging gear (labels readable if possible).

• Shore power inlet and AC panel (door open).

• DC panel (door open).

• A wide photo showing how wiring is supported, routed, and protected.

 

Interior and evidence of leaks (the quiet truth)

Request:

• Headliners and corners around hatches and portlights (staining, sagging, tide marks).

• Under mattresses and in aft cabins (condensation and leaks show here first).

• Inside lockers on exterior hull sides (look for damp, staining, mold).

• Sole boards lifted (if possible): show bilge spaces and limber holes.

 

Soft deck test (simple video)

If deck softness is suspected, request a short video of a firm thumb/foot press in the area while the camera holds steady.

 

Sails, spars, and deck gear

• Sails laid out if possible (otherwise: close-up of sail corners, stitching, UV strip, and any repairs).

• Furler drum and foil area (close-up).

• Winches: close-up on bases and any cracking around mounting.

• Windlass: close-up on base, deck area around it, and a short “up/down” test if possible.

 

Paperwork proof (what to photograph or scan)

If “refit,” “new rigging,” “new sails,” or “engine rebuilt” is claimed, the evidence is paperwork, not adjectives.

Request photos or scans of:

• The last 2–3 years of invoices (yard, rigging, engine, electrical).

• Standing rigging replacement proof (date matters).

• Sail receipts and sailmaker paperwork (if “new” is claimed).

• Haul-out and antifoul dates.

• Any major structural repair documentation and who did it.

 

What to do next (how to interpret what you received)

If photos and videos are complete and consistent, it is usually possible to decide whether the boat is worth:

• traveling to view

• paying for a survey

• negotiating with leverage (because there is evidence)

If key areas are avoided (engine access, seacocks, chainplates, bilges), there are usually only a few explanations:

• the owner genuinely does not know (still risk)

• access is difficult (becomes the buyer’s problem later)

• there is something better discovered after time and money are invested

 

Pre-Survey Support:
https://www.truenorthyachtadvisors.com/pre-survey-support

 

Featured model guides (common buyer searches)

• Beneteau Oceanis 473 – Comprehensive Survey-Prep Guide:
  https://www.truenorthyachtadvisors.com/product-page/beneteau-oceanis-473-comprehensive-survey-prep-guide

• Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 49 / 49i / 509 – Comprehensive Survey-Prep Guide:
  https://www.truenorthyachtadvisors.com/product-page/jeanneau-sun-odyssey-49-49i-509-comprehensive-survey-prep-guide

• Bavaria 40 Ocean / 42 Ocean – Comprehensive Survey-Prep Guide:
  https://www.truenorthyachtadvisors.com/product-page/bavaria-40-ocean-42-ocean-comprehensive-survey-prep-guide-47-pages

 

All Survey-Prep Guides:
https://www.truenorthyachtadvisors.com/survey-guides

 

FAQ

What photos do I need to evaluate a yacht remotely before traveling?

At minimum: full exterior profiles, deck and hardware close-ups, chainplates and mast base evidence, engine-room photos, seacocks and bilges, electrical panels and batteries, and interior leak-prone areas. If those areas are missing, the decision is being made with blind spots.

Can a video walkthrough replace a marine survey?

No. A walkthrough is a risk filter that helps decide whether a boat is worth traveling for and worth paying for a survey. A survey remains the correct tool for condition verification, valuation, and safety-critical findings.

What’s the fastest way to spot hidden problems in a yacht listing?

Request evidence from the unglamorous zones: bilges, seacocks, chainplates, engine room, electrical panels, and leak-prone interior corners. Listings sell comfort. Inspections reveal maintenance reality.

What should be filmed during a walkthrough?

A slow deck walk, each engine start and idle, steering movement, bilge areas, seacock zones, and any spot where repairs are mentioned. The goal is stable, boring footage that proves condition.

What paperwork proves refit claims are real?

Itemized invoices, parts lists, yard receipts, rigging paperwork, sail receipts, and dated haul-out records. If the claim is real, the paperwork usually exists.

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